Surf Nation by Alex Wade

Author:Alex Wade
Language: eng
Format: epub
Publisher: Simon and Schuster

After leaving Heyland I drove to Saunton to have another look at the surf. I knew that this was a futile gesture, for it was getting dark and even if the waves had improved I would only have had about ten minutes water time. But I hadn’t been to the area for a while, and Heyland’s curious blend of no-nonsense businessman’s gruff and incorruptible passion for surfing had me hoping against hope that there might be a wave. Naturally, there wasn’t, but for many people–not least Londoners, Bristolians and people from Midland cities–North Devon is a Mecca of unparalleled appeal. As Heyland says, ‘It’s the first place in the south-west where you can find good surf.’ Save for its narrow lanes, North Devon is geared to a seasonal influx of what Devonians term ‘grockles’ (in contrast to the ‘emmets’ who invade Cornwall), and a pub such as the Thatch, in the centre of Croyde, or Marisco’s nightclub in Woolacombe, will be never less than packed throughout the summer. As with Cornwall, surfing is a vital part of the Devon economy, but unlike anywhere in its neighbouring county (one that would be an island were it not for a few miles of land to the north of the River Tamar), the allure of the area has resulted in an Olympic athlete naming his son after a surf spot. James Cracknell, the gold medal winning oarsman, is so enamoured of surfing at Croyde that he named his son after the village. Croyde itself, one of the prettiest villages in Devon, with thatched cottages galore, takes its name from a Viking raider by the name of Crydda.

There are plenty of North Devon surfers, not to mention a Viking heritage celebrated each June in Croyde, to inspire the Cracknell family. Tiki sponsors local ripper Joel Fitzgerald, and current stand-outs include Adam Thornton, Andrew Cotton, Scott Rannocham, Nigel Cross and Richard Carter. Totnes-bred surfer Eugene Tollemache, a highly regarded big-wave rider and former Rick Stein chef, is another surfer to have made an impact at Croyde and its nearby breaks. There are two surf clubs–the Croyde Surf Club and the Woolacombe Boardriders–and veteran surf photographer Ester Spears is based in the area. When Croyde is working, at low tide on the push and with super-fast waves in the 4–6 ft range, Spears will as often as not be on hand to capture surfing the standard of which is as high as anywhere in Britain or Ireland. This is not a place for beginner or intermediate surfers, though few in these categories seem to realize this. One Bristol surfer and Croyde regular laments the way in which lesser surfers seem to be drawn to the hefty peaks of Croyde: ‘There are so many kooks it’s ridiculous. It’s a great wave but it gets so crowded that you start to think the only solution is to cordon off the beach from anyone who can’t surf–and I mean surf well. I know people have got to learn somewhere,

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